A French saison beverage is served in a bottle alembic decorating with a baby cloudburst cascade on the rim.
Artwork of bubbles analysis tubes on the walls of the anew opened Smuttlabs Brewery and Kitchen reflect the beginning spirit of the brews and aliment on the menu.
DOVER — The blithely lit analysis tube bubbles over the aperture of the old Washington Street comminute architecture city is the aboriginal assurance that an agreement is brewing inside.
Up a baby flight of stairs, accommodating aftertaste testers on a Saturday night are hefting bottle beakers of yellow, amber and brown-colored concoctions and sampling appetizers alignment from pretzels with a fiery beer cheese dipping booze to atramentous teriyaki amber craven strips, which a bartender confides gets its hue from squid ink.
Smuttlabs Brewery and Kitchen, a testing arena for limited-edition brews and outside-of-the-box card choices, operates in the adapted above home of 7th Settlement Brewery, which shut off its curtains at 47 Washington St. aftermost year.
The SmuttLab pilot affairs has been developing small-batch brews for several years at Smuttynose’s Hampton home base, but the Dover brick-and-mortar armpit is the aboriginal for the experimental, small-batch action and arch brewer Charlie Ireland and abettor brewer Tyson Demers.
Smuttlabs, which had its admirable aperture aftermost week, makes acceptable use of the 5,000-square-foot accessible space, cartoon on the mill’s automated history with brick walls, balk attic and apparent brim while arena on the ambitious faculty of a avant-garde agreement in the works. There is test-tube themed art everywhere and exposed-bulb lighting and starburst accessories bonfire ablaze abundant to reflect in the ample window panes at the access and in added agleam surfaces.
The ever-evolving beverage calendar is featured on a army bank card that offers agnate tap numbers to accomplish orders easier for assemblage and servers.
There was aloof a half-hour delay for a table — some with glimpses of beverage tanks through a set of windows — but it accepted added fun to cull up a bench in advanced of the taps, forth the abundant amplitude of the board bar, to sample card items and watch added assemblage do the same.
“We’ve traded in white coats for brewer’s aprons, absolution our imaginations run chargeless and putting alike the wildest account to the test. No appearance is off the table, no additive accounted too outrageous,” Smuttlab’s mission account says.
Chef Anthony Ricco has created a card of starters, sandwiches, burgers and entrees, some of which accommodate beer in the additive list. Try out pub chips served poutine appearance with avoid confit, cheese curds, caramelized onion and porter gravy, or the broiled cauliflower drizzled with attic ale honey. Dinner options accommodate absurd craven and OBD (Old Brown Dog) waffles, and top it off with a ambrosia of Chupa Churros with the advantage of stout spiced frosting.
On this day, the tap account includes a anemic ale alleged “Pity the Fool,” a single-hop French saison — which gets a thumbs up from our bend of the bar — and one alleged “Battle Grounds,” a coffee porter brewed in affiliation with Battle Grounds Coffee as allotment of the Atramentous Ale Project to abutment Operation Delta Dogs. Plus, an espresso martini appropriate gets a caffeinated nod of approval.
One note: Smuttynose’s Siamese Gorilla, a Thai-Irish Red Ale with auto grass, kaffir adhesive and amber that has become a admired at the Towle Road armpit in Hampton, hasn’t been included in the alternating lineup.
Overall, Smuttlabs Brewery and Kitchen is a bright, appetizing airing that makes assemblage feel like they’re in on the experiment.
SmuttLabs Brewery and Kitchen is amid at 47 Washington St., Dover. Information: smuttynose.com or 343-1782.
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